It's a welcome sight, but in eastern Ukraine, clear days are perfect for flying drones and targeting rockets. As we wait, it brightens and the bare trees start to look like cracks in the yellow horizon. The puddles in the parking lot are frozen to a sea glass texture but the sun is emerging from the clouds that have suffocated it for weeks. The women behind the counter are patient with my useless language skills as I load up on snacks for the team, like packing the car full of candy will make it safer. Men wait in line with circles under their eyes making dark jokes with flat facial expressions. Especially after seeing so many stations that have been reduced to charred rubble or had their roofs blown off or windows blown out - the norm on the route from Kharkiv to Kramatorsk and so many other roads. There's something comforting about the humming coffee machines and assortments of cookies and slowly rotating breakfast hot dogs shining in their glass cases. Ukrainian gas stations are oases of normalcy when they're open and have power. and bitterly cold at the gas station in Kramatorsk. Editor's note: Photographer Natalie Keyssar reported from Bakhmut, Ukraine, in December 2022.
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